Hoop House–Style Raised Bed Frost Protection

This structure can support whatever frost covering material you need and can be mounted to the bed in a couple of ways

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With thewinter seasonclosing in on us , it is of farthest grandness to have a frost / freezing “ demurrer system ” in position to protect and extend the time of year for ourfall veggies . A simple path to do this is to freeze protective cloth or plastic material above the plant — to deal them but not to touch on them . Here is a“hoop house”structure , with two way to connect the PVC tube to the sharpness of the raised seam . ( I ’m shout them “ in - layer - mount ” and “ outside - bed - mounted ” versions . )

Things you ’ll need

For in - layer - mount version :

Supplies• Three 8 - foot lengths of ½-inch PVC pipe• Six # 15 safe type O - rings• 4- to 5 - foot duration of 1×2 wood furring strip ( get a good - quality dense wood like pine or oak)• Six ½-inch 2 - hole metal pipework clamps• Twelve 1½-inch # 8 woodwind screws• Scrap Sir Henry Joseph Wood board ( optional , but commend )

Tools• Drill and drill bits• 7/8 - in spade drill bit• Tape measure• Hand saw• Pencil

For out-of-door - bed - mounted version :

Supplies• Three 8 - fundament lengths of ½-inch PVC pipe• Six # 15 rubber atomic number 8 - rings• 4- to 5 - foot length of 1×2 woodwind instrument furring strip show ( get a good - quality dense wood like pine or oak)• 8- to 10 - substructure length of 2×4 stud• Six to ten 3 - inch woodwind instrument or pack of cards screws• Scrap wood board ( optional , but recommended )

Tools• Drill and drill bits• 7/8 - column inch nigra recitation bit• Tape measure• byword ( orbitual saw strongly recommended)• Tape measure• Pencil• Square ( metallic element or dissipated plastic type)• emery paper or sandpaper pulley

Skill layer : Easy

Construction

The “ hoop connector bar ” :

1 . Measure the length of the side of the raised layer you ’ll be mount the PVC hoops to . This will determine the length of the 1×2 wood furring comic strip to cut .

2 . Measure 1 column inch in from both end of the patch you cut down in STEP 1 . Put a mark at these two spots .

3 . Measure the halfway stage between these two end points , and again mark off it .

4 . Using a small diameter drill flake ( around 1/8 column inch ) , drill cowcatcher holes in each of the marks .

5 . Using the 7/8 - inch spade bit and the pilot holes as a start point , drill a gob through the furring strip strip show ( PHOTO A ) .

In - bed - mounted version :

1a . Using the “ hoop connecting cake ” as a guide , put three sign on the privileged sharpness of the raise seam , at the same maculation as the holes in the connecting cake .

2a . Screw three of the 1/2 - inch alloy pipe brackets to the inner edge of the raised seam frame ( PHOTO B ) . Repeat with three brackets on the opposite side of the seam .

3a . Put one rubber O - ring on each PVC pipe , and position them about halfway down the PVC pipe .

finished hoop house

Photos: Greg Holdsworth

4a . Put the oddment of the three PVC pipes into the three metal brackets on one side of the raised bed . Note : you may to loosen / unscrew the metallic element brackets more or less to grant the PVC piping to fit in under them .

5a . Put the “ hoop connecting barroom ” on the other / opposite ends of the PVC pipes . Move the bar until it ’s near the halfway point down the duration of the PVC pipe .

6a . Put one pencil eraser group O - anchor ring on the other ends of each length of PVC , and again , position them about midway down the PVC pipework ( PHOTO C ) .

when drilling the hole through the furring strip, put a piece of scrap board lumber under it.

7a . Put the other / polar ends of the three PVC pipes into the three metallic element brackets on the other side of the raised bed ( PHOTO D ) . aline the bar as necessary .

Outside - bottom - mounted version :

1b . Using the “ hoop connecting bar ” as a scout , cut the 2×4 stud to the same length . Do this twice , as you will need one for each side of the bed .

The metal pipe clamp holds the PVC pipe in place, and prevents it from moving around in the ground.

2b . Smooth out any grating sides or edges with emery paper or a sanding block .

3b . touchstone 1 inch in from both ends of the 2×4 macho-man you cut in STEP 1 . Put a Deutsche Mark at these two blot .

4b . Using a small diameter drill bit ( around 1/8 column inch ) , drill pilot holes in each of the fall guy .

The two rubber o-rings secure the “hoop connector bar” to the PVC pipes

5b . Using the 7/8 - column inch spade bit , and the pilot holes as a start point , practice a 7/8 - in hole in the 2×4 stud ( PHOTO E ) . The holes should be at least 2 inch deep . you’re able to use a pen , pencil , or other target to appraise the astuteness of the maw ; they should be about the same depth .

6b . Using the 3 - inch screws , mount the 2×4 stud to the side of the raised bed frame , describe it up with the top edge of the raised bed ’s skeleton ( PHOTO F ) . I ended up assign a screw at each end of the 2×4 , and then two more , spaced as along the length of the wood stud .

At this point , the raised bed ’s freeze aegis bod is fundamentally finished . This apparatus should be substantial enough to hold up frost cloths , frost cover , or credit card covering . They can be prevail in piazza with weights on the ground , or with clamp attached to the PVC pipe .

The PVC pipes secured to the raised bed.

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Holes drilled into the 2x4 stud will hold the PVC pipes.

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The 2x4 wood stud attached to the side of the bed.

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PVC pipes held in place by the 2x4 stud.

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